Mount McKinley is the tallest mountain in North America. Although there are many taller mountains in the world, McKinley is one of the most impressive. With its base at nearly sea level and its summit at 20,320 feet, it is said to have one of earth's steepest vertical rises.

W.A. Dickey named the mountain after President William McKinley in 1897. Prior to that time the Athabaskan Indians of Interior Alaska called it Denali, meaning "The High One." In other regions of the state it had different names: Doleyka, Traleika, Bulshia, Gora and Tenada. It was called "Dunsmore's Mountain" by the English speakers. Efforts over the years to officially rename the mountain Denali, the Athabaskan name, have been unsuccessful.

The Sourdough Party made the first successful climb of Mount McKinley in 1910. Prior to the Sourdough climb, people believed that the North Peak was the higher peak. Via the Muldrow Glacier, the Sourdough Party hauled a forty-foot spruce pole and flag to the top of the North Peak. They discovered at the summit, however, that the South Peak is in fact higher by 850 feet. Their flag was not visible from Fairbanks, thereby leaving the climbers with only their word as proof of their feat.

On June 7, 1913, the Karstens-Stuck expedition conquered the true peak of Mount McKinley. With Harry Karstens and Rev. Hudson Stuck were Robert Tatum and Walter Harper. From their vantage point atop the South Peak they could look across to the North Peak and see the flag pole left by the Sourdough Party. Harry Karstens went on to become the first superintendent of Mount McKinley National Park in 1917.

Climbing Mount McKinley

The National Park Service implemented a program designed to both enhance the educational outreach for Denali mountaineers and to defray the costs associated with managing mountaineering activities on Mount McKinley and Mount Foraker. This program includes a 60 day preregistration requirement and a Mountaineering Special Use Fee. Climbers are charged $150 per person to climb Mount McKinley or Mount Foraker.

The National Park Service Mountaineering Page for Mount McKinley. This page provides detailed information needed for the prospective climber.

For registrations forms or additional information to prepare for a climb, please contact:

NPS Ranger Station
P.O. Box 588,
Talkeetna, AK 99676
907-733-2231 or fax 907-733-1465.